All Aboard! Exploring Sri Lanka By Train

Lifestyle Collective November 18, 2023

By Julie-Ann Sherlock 

Travel is a BIG part of my life. Wanderlust was bred into me thanks to my parents’ adventurous spirit. They have been globetrotting since the 60s and instilled a curiosity about the world in my siblings and me. Our house had numerous maps, atlases and coffee table books of far-flung destinations to keep us lusting after the world outside our small, rural Irish town. 

So it’s pretty fitting that my first proper trip to Asia was with my sister, Laura and her then-boyfriend, now husband, Sam. Our adventure began in Sri Lanka in January 2017, where we went slightly north of the International Airport to the beach town of Negombo to chill and get over our jetlag for a few days. Then, we explored.

As Sri Lanka offers some of the most scenic and enchanting train journeys in the world, we began our trip in earnest, travelling by train to Kandy. Trains are not only a cost-effective way to get around but also allow you to connect with the local culture and enjoy the breathtaking landscapes. 

And trains are cool. Yes, I said it: I love trains. Now, it’s time to blow the whistle on my trip with my guide to exploring Sri Lanka by train. 

Colombo/Negombo To Kandy

The capital city of Colombo or nearby Negombo are great starting points for your adventures. We paid €2 for second class one-way tickets from Ragama.

The journey took about 4 hours and was like something from a fairytale. Lush tropical countryside, deep ravines and winding bridges brought us up the mountain towards Kandy, with breathtaking views as entertainment along the way. At this stage, I thought it couldn’t be any more beautiful, but the best was yet to come!

Kandy To Ella 

We spent a few days exploring Kandy, walking around the stunning lake, visiting the Temple of The Sacred Tooth Relic and enjoying a traditional dance show at the Kandy Lake Club. Tea factory and a gem museum tours, and the first of many massages, rounded out my time before I moved on to Ella. 

I had heard that this train journey was spectacular, but seeing it with my own eyes confirmed it as one of the most magical routes in the world. 

Winding through mountains and tea plantations, the train takes you through a world you could only imagine exists. Taking in the sheer drops on either side as you lean out the doors is not for the faint of heart. And, while I did stand close to the doors, my cautious side won out. I am very accident-prone, so death by falling from a train was not on my bucket list. Still, the views from my seat were sensational.

I opted for a fast train, and even though the distance is not much further than Negombo to Kandy, it takes much longer. It took 6 hours but was worth every minute, and at €1.70 for a 2nd class ticket, it was one of the cheapest thrills I have ever had!

Galle To Colombo 

I spent a few days in Ella, Sri Lanka’s backpacker heaven, drinking in the mountain air and some local Arrack. (Top tip: Don’t stay up drinking it with your homestay hosts until 3 a.m. the day before taking a scary bus journey!)

After enjoying the super chilled-out vibes of this mountain retreat, I headed south, stopping off for a safari in Udawalawe National Park and some beach days in Tangalle and Mirissa. But alas, I had to take a bus for a while. 

Going from Galle to Colombo by train, I hopped off for a few days in the famous coastal town of Hikkaduwa. Then, it was back up the coast to the capital. 

While the landscape isn’t as mindblowing as the mountains offered, the coastal route is still a worthwhile experience. The 40-minute journey between Galle and Hikkaduwa costs only €0.30, and the approximately 2 hours travelling from there a few days later cost me about €1.15.

Train Info And Tips

While there are three travel classes on Sri Lankan Railways, we found it only possible to get 1st class tickets if you book well in advance. But even third class is comfortable enough, especially for a shorter trip. Tickets can be bought on the day of travel at the station.

The Sri Lanka Railways website provides route details and a journey planner. Be warned: sometimes, the trains can be crowded, so arrive early to secure a seat and be prepared for delays. Bring snacks and water for long journeys, as food options on the train may be limited.

Don’t be afraid to hang out the window and enjoy the views, but be careful and hold on tight.

Lastly, take your time with your trip: Sri Lanka may be a small country, but it is incredible. Take it slowly to enjoy the journey and immerse yourself in the culture and landscapes. And choo-choose to travel by train!